Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig #46
Complete Plans
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig #46
Materials list
Revised 4/7/2011
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Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig #46
Special Tools
9 " Band saw with a 1/8" blade to cut non ferrous metals
Table saw
Router Home made router table (http://www.woodstore.net/porotapl.html)
General wheel and circle cutter, part #06
Propane gas and basic soldering materials
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Chuck Dunbar'sWhirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Vane
- Cut the aluminum into two squares 10 1/2" x 10 1/2".
- Completely lay out the identical vanes on the aluminum squares. Do the same operations on each part of the vanes at the same time.
- You will need a circle jig for this procedure. Usually the jig uses a small nail to center the work at the desired radius. (Photo 1)
- Where the vane centerlines cross, drill a pilot hole just big enough to accommodate the nail in your band saw circle cutting jig. Cut the outside circle first. Be careful not to cut through the other shapes of the vane. (Photo 2)
- Cut the two inside edges up to the inner circle.
- Cut the inside circle. When you are about half around, put masking tape over the band saw blade kerf to hold the vane in correct position. (Photo 3)
- After completely cutting out the two vane shapes, drill the 3/16” diameter holes. These two parts form the complete vane. (Photo 4)
Photo #1 Band Saw Circle Jig
Photo 2 Cutting Outside Circle on Band Saw
Photo 3 Cutting Inside Circle of Vane
Photo 4 Two Parts of Vane
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Blades
- Lay out the blade pattern on heavy paper. Draw the perpendicular centerlines and the lines where the straight blade edge is to be cut. Construct an oval with axes dimensions shown. Using a French curve to draw the elliptically shaped blades gives a close approximation. If you have a computer, check your photo editing software. There may be an editing tool that allows you to choose from among different shapes. One may be an oval whose dimension you can set and print out full scale. (An oval of this dimension set a 45 degrees from the plane of rotation appears to be a circle in the foreshortened view from the front or side of the whirligig. This adds some visual interest.) Next, cut out the pattern with an X-acto knife or similar tool, and copy it to the brass sheet.
- Cut the oval on the band saw.
- Smooth the curved edges with a drum sander. (Photo 5)
Photo 5
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Retaining pins and blade pins
- Cut the 8 arm retaining pins. Chamfer the pin ends so that they will go into their holes easily. The fit in the hole should be sung. If you have to use something hard to push the pins in, or you have to use pliers to get them out, that is the right fit. If the pins fit too loosely in the holes, bend them slightly or, using a cold chisel, whack them in the middle to widen the pin diameter. This will also bend the pins slightly.
- Set up a jig on the band saw to cut the 16 blade pins and their slots. (Photo 6 and Photo 7)
Photo 6
Photo 7
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Blade Arms - step 1
- Cut the eight arms to length. Use a jig to make certain they are all the same length. Chamfer the hub end of the blade arms to make them fit in their holes more easily.
- Using a V block on the drill press, drill the top blade pin holes first. Use a stop to make certain the holes are in the correct position along the blade. When drilling the bottom blade pin holes, put a 2" to 3" long piece of 1/8" diameter rod in the top blade pin hole to act as a vertical guide to make certain the top and bottom holes are parallel. (Photo 7) Do not drill the holes for the arm retaining pins at this time.
Photo 7
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Blade Arms - step 2
- Insert the blade arms in their holes in the hubs. With a 2" to 3" long 1/8" diameter rod in one of the blade pin holes to act as a guide, set the angle of the guide to 45 degrees as shown. (Photo 8)
- Remember that the blade pin holes in the arms in first hub must be oriented opposite to the blade pin holes in the arms of the second hub for the blade sets to rotate in the opposite direction.
- Drill the holes in the hub and arm at the same time. As you drill, watch that the arm does not rotate or move out of the hole . Identify every arm with its hole so that reassembling goes smoothly.
Photo 8
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Blade Arms - step 3
Put the blade pins in their holes and slide the blades into the blade pin slots. Solder the blades in place at the pin only. (Photo 9) The heated blade may expand and warp when soldering the second pin. Either put a wet paper towel on the blade to keep it cool while soldering the second pin or, after the blade and joints have cooled, heat one of the joints with a very small flame until it softens. Then straighten the blade. Grind off an pin that protrudes on the side of the arm opposite the blade.
Photo 9
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Axle and Spacer
- Cut the axle to length. Chamfer both ends. You may need to reduce the diameter of the axle slightly so that it will fit through the bearing. To do this put the axle in the drill press chuck. With the drill press on its slowest speed, hold a sandpaper block against the rotating axle. The axle fit in the bearing should be snug.
- Cut the hub spacer from the 5/16” diameter tube.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Axle Holder - step 1
- Cut the blocks for the axle holders. In the photo I have left the blocks together with about 1/2” separating them. This makes it a little easier to measure and cut the blocks.
- Drill a 1/16” diameter pilot hole for the General circle cutter.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Axle Holder - steps 2 and 3
- Drill the 1/2” diameter holes with a brad point drill for accuracy.
- Drill the 3/16” diameter holes. (Photo 9)
Photo 9
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Axle Holder - step 4
- Draw a centerline on the blocks for later reference. This step requires a circle cutter from General Tools (http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Wheel-and-Circle-Cutter__06.aspx). If you do not already own a circle cutter, get a “Wheel and Circle Cutter, part #06.” This cutter comes with a reversible blade that leaves scrap waste on the inside of the cut, “Hole” option, or on the outside, “Wheel” option. If you have a standard General Tool hole cutter, it will still work. It is harder to set the exact dimension and requires an extra step to cut away the waste left on the disk. Be aware that the maximum safe speed is 500 revolutions per minute.
- With the axle holder block firmly clamped in place, use the General circle cutter or General hole cutter - what I used here - to cut the shape of the axle holders. Make sure the cutter is sharp, or it may tear the wood at the hole openings. As a practical matter, set the circle cutter to cut a circle with a diameter 1/16” smaller than shown on the plans. This will give you a leeway of 1/32" all the way around in case your center is a little off, otherwise you may end up with a flat section on the axle holder. This also applies to cutting the hubs. (Photo 10 and photo 11)
- With the band saw cut any waste from the blocks. (Photo 12)
Photo 10
Photo 11
Photo 12
Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Axle Holder - step 5
Cut the circular shaped axle holder in half. Using the pencil guideline, tape the axle holder to a thin piece of waste plywood. Separate the two halves of the axle holder on the band saw. (Photo 13)
Photo 13
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Axle Holder - step 5
To adjust for the vane thickness, on each surface, sand or plane away the flat surface facing that will face the vane . 25”. Take care to make sure these surfaces remain flat and square with the sides of the holder. These pieces hold the two halves of the vane together as well as hold the axle on which the hubs turn. If the axle is loose in the holder, vibration and shaking will occur.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Hub - step 1
- Cut two blocks to the dimensions in the drawing.
- Mark the centerline on the block for later reference. Lay out the blade mounting holes, and drill them on a drill press. (I use a brad point drill for accuracy.)
- Lay out the center of the block, and drill a 1/16" diameter pilot hole. It is important to be precise as possible, because an off center hub is difficult to balance.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Hub - step 2
- The bearing must fit snugly in its hole. Drill a test hole in a wood scrap with a 5/8" diameter paddle bit. Try the bearing. If the hole is too large, reduce the bit diameter on a whetstone or sandpaper. If the hole is too small, try another paddle bit brand.
- Set the depth of the paddle bit hole to be 3/16”, and drill the holes in the hubs. (Photo 14)
Photo 14
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Hub - step 3
- With the hub block firmly clamped in place, carefully center the pilot bit of the circle cutter in the hole left from the paddle bit operation
- Cut a little more than half way through the wood.
- Turn the piece over and cut from the opposite side. (If you have waste left on the disk, use the band saw to cut away most of the waste freehand. Then, using a drum sander mounted on a drill press and the disk mounted on 1/4” diameter peg in a jig clamped to the drill press table, sand away the remaining waste.) (Photo 15 and Photo 16)
Photo 15
Photo 16
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Hub - step 4
Ream out the 1/4” diameter hole left from the circle cutter to 3/8” diameter. If the hole is not perfectly centered, that is all right. The axle only needs to clear the side of the hole.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Hub - step 5
- Insert the blade arms in their holes. Mark them so that you can match an arm with its hole later. Make certain that blade is at a 45 degree angel to the plane of the hub. With an arm in its hole drill the blade retaining pin hole through the hub and blade arm at the same time. While drilling, watch that the arm does not twist out of position or move out of the hole.
- The orientation of the blades in the second hub will be opposite the orientation in the second hub. (See photo 4)
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Hub - step 6
- Insert the retaining pins in their holes with the arms in place.
- Insert the bearings and slide the blade assemblies and spacer on the axle to check fits.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Mast - step 1
- Cut the two halves of the mast to their overall dimension.
- In one of the pieces rout what will be the slots to hold the vane.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Mast - step 2
- Glue the two mast halves together with weather/water proof glue.
- Drill the two 3/16” diameter holes.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design and Development
Whirligig # 46
Mast - step 3
- The groove is on the side of the mast. The shape at the end of the groove depends on what tool you use to make it. I use a 6" diameter dado blade, which leaves a groove curving up to the mast's side surface. A straight router blade would leave a circular shape at the end of the groove. However you make the groove, you will need to cut a piece scrap wood to close the groove over the Mast Mount Tube. When you glue the scrap piece in place, put some extra glue around the Mast Mount Tube to keep it from falling out later. The important thing is that you have a clear path 2 1/2" long where you can place the Mast Mount Tube.
- Note that the groove is slanted to the BACK of the mast about 1 degree. This slant gives the whirligig a better appearance when the whirligig is placed on the whirligig stand. Mark the back of the mast to avoid confusion in the next step.
- Trim away the excess wood over the mast mount tube.
- Go to Whirligig #43 for photos about these details.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design & Development
Whirligig # 46
Mast - step 4
- Cut the curve at the top of the mast.
- Rout the FRONT of the mast with a 3/8” radius bit to give a curved appearance.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design & Development
Whirligig # 46
Assembly
- Before you paint the whirligig, put it together to make certain everything fits.
- Put the two halves of the vane into their slots and fasten with the 2 6-32 x 1“ screws. Put a flat washer under the head and lock washer.
- To make a whirligig bench holder, put a 1/4" diameter rod about 6" long into 1/4" diameter hole drilled into a scrap wood block. Clamp the block to the edge of your work surface.
- Put the Mast on the rod.
- Put a half drop of light oil in the bearing races. Put the bearings in their holes in the two hubs.
- Fasten the arm in its hole with a blade retaining pin. Remember that the blade arms are to the inside, and the blades are straight side to straight side. The pin on the side of the hub that faces the other hub should be flush with the hub surface.
- Put the blade assemblies on the axle with the spacer between them. (Photo [hub assembly-blog]) Put a Dura-Collar to the outside of each hub assembly - collar, hub assembly, spacer, hub assembly, collar.
- Loosely fasten the rear axle holder in place with two 6-32 x 1 1/2" screws. Use a flat washer under the head and a flat washer and lock washer under the nut.
- Put the axle with its collars and hub assemblies into the rear axle holder. Tighten the screws. You may need to tape the front end of the axle in place while you tighten the screws. There should be enough leeway in the 3/16" diameter axle holder holes to allow you to get the parts - vane, axle and axle holder - to fit together. If not, you will need to either shorten the axle and/or enlarge the notch in the vane that accommodates the axle.
- Put the front axle holder in place. If everything fits together, disassemble the whirligig and paint it. (See separate painting instructions.)
- When the painting is finished, reassemble the whirligig. This time put one Dura-Collar on each of the 8 blade arms. When balancing the arms, you may find that not all the Dura-Collars are required, but it is easier to start with a collar on each arm.
- The final step is balancing the painted whirligig. Put a small piece of tape on the first hub to serve as a marker. In a room without drafts, spin one blade assembly. Note where the blade assembly comes to rest. (Think of a clock face.) Little by little, adjust the location of the Dura-Collars until each blade is perfectly balanced. A collar may need to be removed from or added to an arm for balance. When the blade set is balanced, it will come to rest at different places. This balancing procedure can take as long as an hour. Be patient. Balance the second blade assembly the same way. The blades should turn in the slightest breath of air.
- If the blades do not turn freely, check the following:
Did you put a half a drop of oil in the bearing races?
Are the bearings in the hub parallel to one another?
Does the axle rub against the hub where it passes through the hub between the bearings?
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design & Development
Whirligig #46
Painting wood parts
- You may paint the whirligig any color you like, but if you are putting it outside, intense colors are the most visible.
- Sand the wood pieces with 150 grit or 180 grit 3M Sandblaster sandpaper.
- Prime the wood with a good grade of white exterior latex or acrylic (water based) wood primer paint. I put on three thick coats.
- Then sand the paint smooth with 220 grit 3M Sandblaster sandpaper. The 3M sandpaper does not fill up with paint. After you have sanded, some of the wood may show through.
- Apply two more coats of the exterior paint more thinly and evenly than before.
- Sand with 320 grit 3M Sandblaster sandpaper. Avoid sanding down to the wood. If the wood shows, apply two more paint coats over the bare spots and sand.
- Use quality exterior gloss enamel over the primer. The color coat may be either water based or solvent-based exterior paint. I use Ronan solvent-based Bulletin colors. I apply them with a one-stroke synthetic hair brush. Whatever paint you use, follow the directions. Using solvent-based paint requires adequate ventilation.
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Chuck Dunbar's
Whirligig Design & Development
Whirligig #46
Painting aluminum and brass parts
- Priming brass and aluminum metals presents special problems. The following procedure works. (Go to my blog [http://dunbar.blog.com/4954759/] for a complete discussion of the problem and a solution.) For best results, allow enough time to follow the procedure without interruption. Prepare a solution of trisodium phosphate, TSP, 1 cup per gallon. Clean the metal parts with #1 steel wool. Immediately put all the aluminum or brass parts to be painted in the TSP solution. Do not put the brass and aluminum parts in the solution at the same time. Leave the parts in the TSP solution a half hour. Swish the water a few times. Rinse and dry the metal parts.
- Immediately, put the metal parts in a 5% solution of white vinegar (how it comes out of the bottle) for five minutes. Swish the water a few times. Do not put the brass and aluminum parts in the vinegar at the same time. Rinse and dry the samples.
- Immediately, spray Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer, white or very light gray, (no product number) on all surfaces of the metal samples. Do not forget the edges. Apply two coats. Follow the directions on the spray can. I improvise a spray booth outside to spray paint the parts. I wear a half mask cartridge respirator while I paint.
- Sand the metal parts very lightly with 320 grit 3M Sandblaster sandpaper.
- Use quality exterior gloss enamel over the primer. The color coat may be either solvent-based or water-based exterior paint. If you use water-based exterior enamel, allow the Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer to cure for one week. I use Ronan solvent-based Bulletin colors. I apply them with a one-stroke synthetic hair brush. Whatever paint you use, follow the directions. Using solvent-based paint requires adequate ventilation.
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